Tuesday, June 18, 2013

The Standing Men and Women of Kadıköy (photos by Stephen Freer)


There is a new form of protest sweeping the country now—it started last night at 8:00PM after the brutal crackdown of the weekend (detailed in my last entry) with one man in Taksim Square and now seems to be spreading everywhere—it’s called duranadam, the standing man, although there are standing women and children as well now. We came home to Kadıköy today to see if the movement had spread here, and indeed it had. At Altıyol, where the famous Bull Statue serves as a meeting point, about twenty people stood facing down the hill toward the sea.



 

There was an old man, many young people, and a couple of middle aged women. People stopped to wipe sweat off the protesters, or buy them water. A couple of Kurds from Adıyaman stood beside me as my friend took pictures.

‘Do you think they will keep going?’ he asked.

‘I hope so,’ I told him.

‘What will happen to them? Will the police attack them? Will standing become a crime here, too?’

Down at the wharf one lone boy stood next to the Roma flower sellers.  He was more serious—he did not acknowledge us when we set that water bottle at his feet—just nodded slightly and kept his eyes focused upward on the flag.



Finally, in front of the Atatürk statue, a bearded young man with a backpack was pacing back and forth as if keeping guard. His friend kept him supplied with water, wiped sweat off his face, and then took a turn when the other got tired.



‘I’m a sea captain,’ he told me. ‘I left my ship when all the violence started against the protesters, and I came here to do my part. We are keeping watch here in front of the founder of my country.’

‘Have any police bothered you yet?’

‘Not yet. No one seems to have noticed us.’

I saw a man that I could swear was an undercover cop—they’re everywhere, but I didn’t say anything.

‘I am ashamed of our press,’ the ship captain said. ‘I am ashamed they stayed silent for so long. My country is a beautiful country, but this Tayyip is a bad man.’


Chemical Warfare Begins Here


First of all—none of these videos are mine. I don’t claim them. They are from You Tube and Twitter, and have been circulating the social media that Turkey’s Prime Minister Erdoğan called a scourge. This weekend saw one of the worst police crackdowns yet in the ongoing police attacks on protesters in Turkey. (The newspapers here call these attacks ‘interventions’) The usual tactics were used of course—dousing people with pepper gas (This time the American Hospital, the German Hospital, and the Dutch Consulate all tasted the Gas as well as all the hotels and businesses that have been sheltering gas victims from the beginning, yes the Divan Hotel, but also the Hilton and the Ramada.) They also used their time honored water canons from the back of a police tank, but with a little twist. CS liquid pepper gas in the tanks—enough to cause first degree burns on the skin. At first, the police simply denied that anything was added to the water. Then Istanbul’s nefarious governor Avni Mutlu said that it was ‘medicine’ after a picture of police pouring something into a water tank while wearing gloves appeared on the accursed social media.




Yesterday, the head of police training was interviewed on Channel A and said that yes, well, liquid CS pepper gas had been added but he didn’t see the big deal because they had been using that for years (against whom I wonder?) And people got sprayed with the stuff directly anyway, so why were they complaining if they added it to water, which was actually a dilution? He suggested the pictures of people with first degree burns were just fakes or allergic reactions.



 Nevermind that on the packaging it says ‘Prevent the spread of this solution to sewers, drainage systems and surface water. Keep away from eyes and skin.’ Other warnings include ‘Keep away from children. Do not spray directly into open spaces. If any is spilled clean immediately. If solution comes into contact with eyes or skin wash immediately with plenty of water.’

The evolving lies—each new crime admitted only when the scourge of the social media forces them to.  Here is a chilling video of a girl being sprayed with the stuff at Gezi.


Another tactic they are using to disperse protesters is arming thugs with sticks and knives. Today in the Radikal newspaper, the AK Party’s district chairman admitted these people were out there but denied the party had put them on the streets. Never mind this video showing these Brown Shirts roaming the streets with a police escort.


The police were hunting down doctors treating the wounded as well—raiding makeshift hospitals.

A new protest started last night—the Standing Man. All over the country people are just standing still. Last night they filled Taksim Square. This morning a girl started in Beşiktaş. Of course, the arrests have ensued. Standing still and doing nothing is now defined as terrorism in Erdoğan’s Turkey.
Visit www.duranadam.com (standingman.com)


Sunday, June 9, 2013

Where is all this going? The week in Silivri, the weekend in Gezi Park


I must be careful of words—the old cliches don’t work anymore. Freedom, democracy, liberty, tolerance—the wrong people have used them for the wrong things for so many years. Sometimes with good intentions, sometimes with bad. My ears hurt to hear them.

So let me paint a picture.

Gezi Park, Taksim Square—The heart of Istanbul. To the left of the stairs that lead to the park, the Kurds dance the Halay in an everwidening circle. The Kurdish flag flies and the radio blasts guerilla songs. A crowd moves past them—‘Turkey for the Turks’ Kemalists most likely with red star and crescent banners emblazened with Atatürk’s face. They chant ‘We are soldiers of Mustafa Kemal!’ Down the path a little bit, they will come across a group of gay men marching in the other direction chanting, ‘We are NOBODY’S soldiers.’ They are hamming it up big time. Between the two converging groups you find a tent for the Turkish Socialist Party—old school hardliners, and another tent of middle-aged Armenian churchladies distributing cookies. Down in the main square, some Black Sea people dance the wild horon.
A week ago--you would never have seen an Ataturk flag and a BDP banner together...
 
 

A few weeks ago, things would have been very different. The Kurds and Kemalists would have been fighting in the streets; the gay men harassed or jeered, maybe by the Black Sea boys, the Armenians would have been trying to keep a low profile and everyone would have beeb watching what they said—as afraid of each other, even, as they are of the government. But in Gezi Park this weekend they are all here, speaking out, without fear or censure. They don’t necessarily like each other—make no mistake about that--but they tolerate each other, they leave each other alone.

The media calls it a carnival or a festival or a party. But it’s much more organized than that—a funhouse reflection of a state. And together our protesters have created a miniature city within a city that reflects the dream of Martin Luther King—however ephemeral, however tenuous, however fast the army of police and marauders approach, people feel ‘free at last’.

Together, these disparate groups have built a ‘Museum of the Revolution’ pasting pictures of the police attacks and subsequent resistance in the abandoned trailer of the construction crew’s foreman. They have transformed the overturned and looted cars of the civil police into day-glo platforms of free speech—everyone grabs a spray can and writes what they think. And, in a first for Turkey, they write it with no fear or hesitation.

They’ve created a ‘Market of the Uprising’ where they distribute drinks for free. They set up a ‘children’s studio’ where kids get messy with tempera paints and create whatever they hell picture they want on huge sheets of white paper, emerging from their efforts covered in color.

They have trash teams that do clean up of the grounds and somehow have managed to publish two newspapers ‘Tomorrow’ and ‘The Future’ which they distribute among the hundreds of thousands of people who come to visit every day. They’ve set up a television station (online of course), a radio station, several different websites in a multiplicity of languages. They’ve created a ‘Parliament’ where different people come and debate each other and a moderator turns off their microphone whenever they get aggressive or insulting.

Now let me give you a bit of what Erdoğan’s AKP has in mind for these people—in case you couldn’t guess from the continuing brutal police attacks and arrests in Antakya, Ankara, Eskişehir and Izmir. Or from the tortures of detainees here in Istanbul (http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/sex-as-a-police-punishment-.aspx?pageID=500&eid=258#.UbHIMd3zpWI.facebook)

You see,  I could not make it down to Gezi Park until Friday because the rest of the week my family was kept busy by the KCK show trial of my father-in-law and hundreds of others. The trial took place in Silivri and has been going on for almost two years. For some reason, my more enlightened work colleagues at the protests were under the impression that everyone had been released. This was a devastating blow to our morale. How could people aware enough to come to Gezi NOT KNOW??

For the past year and half, the trial has been held in Silivri prison’s old courtroom. The first time I was there, I counted about 60 chairs on the right of the court room for defense attorneys, another 60 on the left of the courtroom for government officials and parlementarians, in the middle over 200 chairs for defendants, and in the back a small section for visitors. Well we’re in the new and improved courtroom now. Recently completed, AKP authorities have added another section for defendants—I think it is up to 250 chairs now. There are now 180 chairs on the right for defense lawyers and 180 more on the left. The section for the journalist and parliamentarians is now in the far back corner where it is difficult to see or hear and numbers maybe 45 chairs—3 in a row and 15 deep. Only the first two rows could see anything.

What is the symobilism here? What needs is the government anticipating? Even larger mass trials with hundreds of defense attorneys and a pliant press that sits obediently and silently in the back?

The crowds here--these are the people that the Prime Minister is expanding the size of his courtrooms for.
These chairs are meant for groups like our young protesters—the children painting in the ‘art’ tent. The old lady distrubiting lemonade. The bagpipe band I saw perform on the square.

And when the protesters are brought here, what sort of justice awaits them? Well, let me give you a sample. Most things you’ll be forced to buy from the prison. Socks for instance. Your family won’t be able to bring much to you at all. And take a book because you’re going to be there a while. We waited a year while the court read the indictment aloud—it was over 2000 pages (you need that many for mass trials of over 200 people at a time) and while we waited for them to finish reading, our relatives and friends languished in prison, many nearly dying in a hunger strike last fall. The reward for the hunger strike? More of the police attacks the protesters are eating on the square and a year and a half of no visitations, five months of no outside contact, ten days in isolation. But if you have been reading this blog, you know all this.

So what happens to the protesters once the indictment is read?

These days, at our trial, the suspects are coming up one by one before the court and giving the statements of defense. They are allowed to do this in Kurdish now. There are three translators in the courtroom, though they have a hard job at times. After decades of prohibiting the language, no one is confident that they speak it well enough for a courtroom. And in many cases they don’t. Still, here is what some of the defendants said. I am summarizing from notes—this is not a word for word dictation and it’s been twice translated. But please government reporters and conspiracy nuts, rest assured, I am not hiding any sudden outbursts of ‘Hey everybody, I’m a terrorist! And I’m gonna get you!

These girls--some of the drunks and looters (chapulcu) Erdoğan spoke about. Will they be arrested when the show trials begin?

A man named Kemal Aydin was first—he once was the local chairman of the BDP offices in Esenler. After paying respects to the court and judge, he reminded them that he was a member of a legal political party, whose bylaws and platform had been submitted to the Constitutional Court and approved.

‘You say working for this party is a crime. Going to rallies, making phone calls—crimes. We submitted all the paperwork to your courts. Everything I’ve done has been legal and open. Your courts recognized our legitmacy—then how now are we criminals?’

Our protesters might make a similar argument—that civil disobedience is a legally recognized right protected by most constitutions in the world.

 ‘I am an activist,’ Mr. Aydin went on. ‘And I feel a great responsibility to my conscience. In our thirty years of activism, five of my relatives have lost their lives. One was my brother, one was my daughter, and three were my nieces and nephews. If you want to open a case against us, then you should start by opening their graves.’


This little looter girl and her drunk dad will be rounded up maybe, and the little drunk soccer fan above them, too.
The judge started to ask about contents of certain secret files whose contents have not been read aloud to the court—do we have no idea what they said. Have no doubt that enthusiastic police are preparing similar secret files for the protesters.

‘Our secret witness Haydar says you were present at rallies where terrorist slogans were chanted,’ says the judge.

‘Excuse me,’ Mr. Aydin answers. ‘But who is this secret witness, Haydar? How can I respond to that if I don’t know who he is? How do I know that your secret witness was not coerced into confession by torture or even real?’

Here you are—terrorist slogans at rallies. This is what the Prime Minister says about the Gezi Park protests now. Terrorist and secret agents agitating the masses. How many secret witnesses might this government find, how many ‘Haydars’ to accuse those braveyoung people in Taksim and Ankara and Beşiktaş and Izmir. They are clearly getting the stage ready—hundreds have been arrested already—five today were arrested in Adana (June 8th).

Perhaps police will use secret witnesses or phone recorders to prosecute this terrorist member of a marginal group
Osman Akdağ is another defendant who tried to explain to the court where he was coming from.

‘I have never spent more than one month together with my children. I spent 28 years in exile and when I came back, I was arrested within 3 months for ‘terrorist’ activities. How could I manage such a range of ‘activities’ in just three months!? I spent many years in prison in this country. So did my children. Many of my friends in prison suffered severe torture. One man lost his eyes. Two set themselves on fire to protest their treatment—one of these guys had been so badly maimed by police torture that he was paralyzed and we had to carry him to the toilet. And my story is not unique, hundreds upon hundreds of people experienced the same sorts of things. The only thing that prison gave me was time to learn to read and write—but the funny thing is one of your pieces of ‘evidence’ is a notebook that supposedly belongs to me. Well that notebook is 18 years old and was written long before I’d learned to write it. How is that possible? And how could I have written it in Turkish when I still can’t write that language? I write only in Kurdish!’

Police brutality, eyes put out, fabricated evidence—the net has widened now. Everyone in Turkey can now experience these things. How many eyes have been put out by plastic bullets in Beşiktaş and Ankara? Two young men have lost their lives to beatings—I heard rumors of a third this morning-- most likely by secret police—Abdullah Comert died in Hatay, the other boy in Eskişehir.


Perhaps these are the foreign spies that the AKP say instigate the crowd.
Defendant Ahmet Demirsoy speaks after the lunch break. ‘I am a conscientious objector,’ he tells the court. ‘I do not believe in violence of any sort.’

I think of the gay men with the sign, ‘We are no one’s soldiers.’

‘I am against all forms of militarism,’ he continues. ‘I saw villages burned, children shot and killed. I have worked to have everyone’s rights recognized. I emphasize the word everyone. Any militarized country says to its army, ‘You will kill take this gun and kill or you will die.’ They turn us into murderers or martyrs. I refused. I cannot be a terrorist, and I am no robotic follower. You say you have telephone recordings that show I was part of a ‘terrorist group’. Let me discuss one of your recordings. I was speaking to a French friend who had trouble pronouncing certain letters. He said, in French, ‘Lets go to Akhtamar’ but it came out like a guttural ‘Amara’ (The Kurdish name for the village Abdullah Ocalan was born). That is admissable evidence for you. The misunderpronounced name of a city spoken in a language your police could not understand.’
 

I think of all the foreigners I saw in Gezi Park yesterday—the marchers with signs in French, German, English and Dutch. How will police use this agains them? The police shout out for people not to listen to ‘provocateurs’ right before they gas them. The Prime Minister warns of foreign agents. What is it they have planned? They can twist anything you say into evidence. One of the tweets used to arrest the Twitter writers was ‘The police are here. Don’t come!’ This is proof of terror and incitement to violence?

The last person to speak is Mehmet Kıymaz. He repeats the argument that they have all been brought in for working for a party recognized as legal by the government. ‘I lived and worked in Küçükçekmece for  22 years. I retired in 2008 and became the BDP party’s accountant there. As the accountant, I was very busy and had to intend every single meeting and rally we had. It was my job! And now you say I am guilty for ‘my presence at certain meetings?’ I am guilty for performing my legal duties as accountant for a legal political party? Some of our people are very poor, as you know. I gave them bus money to attend our rallies—men, women, children. They couldn’t have gone otherwide. Bus money! And because of that you accuse me of funding terrorist organizations?’

The people in Ankara, from what I understand, were arrested by a similar leap of logic. By their protest in the street, they were fomenting a coup. Every action taken by a protester is interpreted as incitement to violence, a terrorist acts, plotting and meddling.

On Friday, June 7th, we got the news. 14 people in the KCK Silivri trial were released leaving 90 more behind in prison. And the one hundred or so who have been released are still being tried—let me emphasize that. Life sentences are being planned for many of them. And this is just at Silvri. KCK trials are being run all over the country—two more are in Istanbul alone. And people think they are all released. We’re forgotten—even by those who shouldn’t forget. After a few years they will forget about our protesters, too. They will sit in jail, yesterday’s news.

The government has already done away with the army in the Ergenekon case, for better and worse, and the Kemalist with the Balyoz case. Now the Kurds of the BDP are being finished off. One by one the opposition is being picked off. I suppose they have the Gezi Park protesters in their sights now. A big spacious courtroom is waiting, and 30 years of precedence.


Some more of the vandals and provocateurs who need to be rounded up for a mass trial
As you resist, remember what waits for you if you lose, and if you win, remember all of those who went before you. I admire what you’ve done. The whole world does. Carry forth in peace and fairness, and remember that democracy is for us all.

 

Friday, June 7, 2013

Update on the Turkish Protests


So where are we this week? So much has happened, is happening. Where do you start? I'm sorry but I have no pictures this week--maybe later. But I felt the need to get down what was happening NOW. I have included come Youtube video links that tell part of the story.

Tencere ve Tava Proteso (The Pots and Pans Protest)

On Sunday night, June 2nd, we were sitting in the living room, watching TV with Grandfather, Delal’s aunt, and a friend visiting from Silivri. Suddenly, a noise rose up from the street, growing louder and louder. We all went out onto the balcony to find our whole neighborhood hanging out the window banging pots and pans. The clamor came from every direction—from Çamlica in the west and Ataşehir in the East. I swear to God the very air seemed to be alive and vibrating. We ran in and got our own pots and pans. ‘I feel like I’m getting something big off my chest!’ our aunt said as she pounded away on a frying pan.

And so weren’t we all, the entire city.

Last year, during the height of the Kurdish hunger strikes, we joined a civil action campaign to turn off the lights and put candles in the window for all the prisoners. I remember how miserable and alone I felt—our window the only dark one as far as they eye could see. You felt targeted, marginalized. Now everyone was on the same side. We felt safe, empowered. Cars poured out into the street honking horns. The gigantic apartment high rises in Ataşehir blinked on and off like Empire State Christmas trees. Behind them a storm was pouring in over the mountains, tall black thunderheads—lightning darted behind the hills. It seemed even God himself had joined in. And this was in a neighborhood known for being staunch supporters of Erdoğan’s party, the AKP.

Every night at 9:00 since then, the same thing has happened. Last night in Kadıköy the workers at the Opera House from actor to concession stand worker poured out into the side streets armed with giant pots. Taxis honked at them as they went by.

But I will add one thing—Grandfather would not come out with us. At first he protested, ‘No, don’t go out. It’s rude! You’ll wake people up.’ We laughed, we insisted, we pointed out everyone was doing it and finally he emerged with the biggest pan of all, but then almost unconciously, immediately crouched behind our balcony walls, instinctively afraid. In his 83 years he has seen enough of Turkish state oppression—he perhaps had the sense to be scared.

Here’s some videos of similar pots and pans protests around the country.

Aydin


Ulus (Istanbul)


Ankara

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ty78ZqaSez4

A song by the popular group ‘Kardeş Türküler’ about the pots and pans protest


A week of tense calm

The KCK show trials continued this week—all of our time has been occupied with that and so we did not have time to go down to the protests this week. But lots of things have been happening. On Wednesday, in Izmir, police arrested38 people for messages on their Twitter accounts—this AFTER Bulent Arınç, the Deputy Prime Minister, made a somewhat conciliatory announcement that made it seem as if the government might back off a little. Newspapers (official ones) started spreading rumors that foreign agents were provoking protests and then arrested foreigners in Istanbul and Ankara, claiming some of them had diplomatic passports. The suggestion was—we’ve caught them! This turned out to be false. They were all hapless Erasmus students.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m0YcEUHxTuY

In Hatay and Eskişehir two students have been beaten to death—most likely by undercover cops. Our friends protesting in Beşiktaş report gangs of what look like undercover cops harassing protesters, cutting lights, and at times luring people into alleys and beating them. Rumor? Wild guessing? Maybe, but this is a country where hundreds were disappeared by similar people in the 90s and I have seen the undercover cops at Kurdish protests myself, so, it’s certainly possible.

Protests in Beşiktaş (Çarşı)


On Tuesday, Erdoğan told the protesters that ‘he could barely restrain 51% of the country (from attacking them)’ and then went on a North African tour. When he arrived back last night hundreds of his supporters met him at the airport. They ecstatically chanted his name and told reporters that they wanted to go down to Taksim and drive the protesters out.

A friend of ours at school was riding in a taxi last night when the driver told her a story—he was shaking, nervous, she said.

‘I was at the Marmara Hotel, waiting on a customer when I overheard this conversation between some officers and their chief. ‘What’s going on in the square?’ asked the chief. ‘Nothing much,’ an officer answered. ‘People are just wandering around basically.’ ‘Send them some gas,’ the chief said. The officer refused, ‘Didn’t you hear me? I said they were just wandering around.’ The chief got angry, ‘I said send them some gas!’ The officer turned to his fellow policemen, cussing under his breath and said, ‘You heard the order! Toss them some gas!’

I don’t know how much you can trust a taxi driver’s story. There’s a rumor that many are undercover cops. They have been known to say provocative things to lure people into talking and ‘revealing their true colors’.

That’s where things stand. Meanwhile the park seems a happy and hopeful place. People put up memorials to Hrant Dink and the Robowski Massacre. The plant trees. Restaurants are bringing food to protesters. Volunteers come by with medical supplies, tampons, vitamins, rain coats, whatever is needed.

A friend shared another inspiring story—she was on the metrobus when a gang of Çarşı (Beşiktaş football hoodlums) got on wearing bandanas over their mouths. An old woman approached them and without a word pulled each of their faces to her and kissed them on the forehead. She knew they were going into battle with the police (Çarşı youths famously stole one of the police vehicles and used one of their own water cannons against them) and was sending them on their way.

People are hopeful. Tremendously hopeful.

Sunday, June 2, 2013

This Way to the Revolution---


 

                Last night, we were coming home from an eventful day on Taksim Square. Just to wind down, we’d gone for Turkish coffee at a street cafe in Kadıköy and were trying to catch a taxi home—it was 1 AM and no public transport was available. Four taxi drivers refused to pick us up—they either sped away immediately or else stopped and said our group was too big. There were four of us—me, my wife, her sister, and her diminutive friend. It was hardly a large or threatening group. Finally a young man picked us up and told us there had been ‘incidents’ on Acibadem Boulevard and that the taxi drivers were cautious. We weren’t buying this exactly since what kind of incidents might come from 3 tiny Kurdish girls and a middle aged foreign man? ‘He doesn’t like our type,’ the girls complained.
Marchers in front of Dolmabahçe
 

Marcher's from Beşiktaş Wharf

Marchers coming up through the park
 

 
 

At a corner near the Acibadem ‘Karakol’ bus stop, some hooligans with Turkish flags had formed a human roadblock and stopped a PTT truck (the Turkish postal service—a government official and I guess therefore a target). Except for these riled young men, the rest of the road was empty. Boys with flags chanted about being soldiers of Ataturk while others forced the man out of the truck. I did not like the look of the frenzied ‘patriots’ as the poor old man stepped into their midst. Our taxi driver sped up and made a hurried, but whispered phone call.  To the police? To another taxi driver?

I’m starting at the end because of something my 6th grade history teacher taught me—‘Think about the meaning of the word ‘revolution’ she told us. ‘It means, originally, a 360 degree turn. You end where you began.’ In other words, the popular uprising against the dictator often results in a the popular appointing of a similar dictator.

The background is this:

For several days now, protesters have occupied a park here in Istanbul called ‘Gezi Park’. The park was approved for leveling by the government. In it’s place some kind of mall/mosque combination has been planned—the latest in a series of mega malls and mosques across this sprawling, traffic choked mega city of Istanbul. Gezi was the last green space in that part of the city and people decided to take a stand. The government’s response was what it always is--police attacks with gas, tanks, and water cannons. But instead of dying out, the protests grew. Sırrı Surreya Önder, a BDP parliamentarian, joined the protesters and stood in front of a bulldozer to protect one of the trees. The police ‘intervened’ and he was hospitalized—but he had already become one of the galvanizing symbols of the protests. As did the poor Moroccan girl who was rushed to the hospital after being attacked by police. Protests have spread to Ankara, Diyarbekir, Edirne, Konya, Antep, Kütahya, Aydın, Bodrum, Bursa, Eskişehir and Izmir—and internationally. I just saw a picture on Facebook of a solidarity protest in Bangkok.

The park was a neutral issue in a way, not tied to any one party or ideology, and in a country where each group is diametrically opposed to every other, that is critical. It meant everyone could rally around this cause. And of course, it grew beyond protecting Gezi Park. It was a protest against all the policies the government was pushing through despite opposition. It was a reaction against the third bridge—a project which threatens not only to destroy the region’s last forests, aquifers, and waterways but choke a city whose resources are already taxed by a population three times the size that most city planners deem as sustainable. It was a reaction against the bizarre scheme to build a canal from the Black Sea to the Marmara. To build a giant mosque on Çamlıca (another green space in a city sorely in need of them). To build a mall over the parking lot next to Fenerbahçe stadium. It protests the recent laws enacted against alcohol and the innumerable tax hikes on alcohol put into place this past year. It protests the Uludere massacring of 34 civilians by the military on the Iraqi border and the shady circumstances around the 50+ deaths in Reyhanlı this past month from a car bomb. It protests the way Erdoğan runs his government—like a kingdom where one man can deem a sculpture ‘an eyesore’ and personally command a construction crew to tear it down despite all opposition.  They are protesting the prosecution of Fazil Say and Sevan Nişanyan for ‘insulting Islam’. They are protesting the political official Mustafa Macit who said that ‘atheists should be destroyed’ and Fehmi Kaya the Ministry of Education official who said that autistic children are going to hell because they are ‘natural atheists’. They are protesting the inaction around the abuse of women and torture under police custody. And finally they are protesting the arrests of hundreds of journalists and political activist around the country.

                But this movement is disorganized and all encompassing and includes everyone opposed to the policies of the current government. Everyone. Which means there are also those protesting the compromise with the Kurds, the admission of the Kurdish language as a legitimate tongue, the relaxation on discussion of taboos such as talking about the Armenian Genocide or the Dersim Massacre or the Madımak hotel massacres or the disappearances of the 90s. It means there are those  protesting the relaxation of laws against ‘insulting Turkishness’ and the weakening of the army to prevent the endless coups—all the hallmarks of the previous dictatorship.

                So it’s a volatile mix.
Media van--it reads 'Media has sold out.'

A police van in Gezi Park
 

                My wife and I went down with a Brazilian friend around 10:00PM on Friday night to join the protests—this was May 31st. We walked up from Karaköy wharf and then took the tramway—surprised all to hell that all public transportation to Taksim was working just fine since on May 1st they closed down the whole city to prevent people from going there. When we arrived in Tunel—the far end of İstiklal Boulevard from Gezi Park and Taksim Square—it was Friday night business as usual with foreign tourists and young Turks filling the clubs and cafes. Just past Galatasaray High School things began to change—we ran into a wall of protesters chanting ‘The Government Must Resign’ and joined in.

‘Hükümet Istifa! Hükümet İstifa!’

It was cathartic at first—hundreds of us chanting in unison. I looked over the heads of the crowds toward Taksim Square and saw a sea of people that ended in billowing white clouds. Tear gas—for hours the police had been shooting cannister after cannister at protesters and we smelled it all the way from the ferry a couple of miles away. There was a riot tank with a spotlight that cut through the gas and every once in a while it would move forward and the crowd would panic and charge backward.

                One thing about this first night, the 31st, that struck me was the absence of flags—at least where we were. And I mean flags of any kind—almost no Turkish flags, union flags or party flags. It was almost like there was an unspoken agreement—this was a movement springing out of the whole society and we’re not going to play politics. I know the BDP made an active decision not to get involved officially for fear that it would look like they were using the protests to further their own political ends and thus be divisive. It looked as if the decision was mutual on all sides.

The crowd invading the construction site
People lowering themselves down into the construction site
The end result was electrifying—I felt at least empowered. We had all found a common ground and were united at last against the man we regarded as a dictator. From a personal point of view, in addition to all of the other issues, we were united against the man whose government had ordered the arrest of my father in law and thousands of others and turned our lives upside down.
The crowd after taking Gezi Park back from the police 
 

Then the police attacked in force. Gas cannisters fell all around us-we were wrapped in an yellowish cloud and I saw police beating down people with billy clubs. We ran down a sidestreet and there were people waiting to give us milk which would help against the burning effects of the gas. I put a bit on my face and eyes and it only made it worse. I stumbled through the street choking and blinded. There was something sticky all over my face and people said this was different from the usual gas attacks. We heard later that the police were using a new kind of gas called ‘portakal gazı’ that the usual methods were powerless against—no water or milk or lemon juice. There were people milling through the crowd with bottles of vinegar and a liquid made from stomach antacids. A young woman sprayed my face with the stuff and the sting immediately began to fade.

This woman was only one of hundreds. I was impressed with the solidarity everyone was showing. It was about one in the morning at this point and tatooed men came out of bars to pass out napkins and water to those fleeing the police. An old woman was handing out milk from her window (before we knew it would only make things worse) and shouting at us to ‘keep resisting’. A young man was giving people gas masks and all along the streets taxi driver and minivans and busses were honking their horns in support. Back in Kadıköy things were just getting started. At 2am people were pouring into the streets with pots and pans and banging them together chanting ‘We are all Taksim’. At 3am, from our balcony at our house in Üsküdar, we heard another pots-and-pans protest moving through our quiet, conservative neighborhood. There were reports coming in from all over of similar protests around the city. By dawn, thousands of marchers had blocked the Bosphorous Bridge on their way to Taksim.

And police attacks continued.

I woke up the next day around 12 and immediately got on Facebook and Twitter simultaneously following the news and getting the word out.

Rumors and fear and hearsay—people seemed to be Tweeting in a panic. The police were using Agent Orange, they said (not true). 3 people have lost their eyes and four are dead. Haberturk announced  the government was going to cut the Internet. Indeed at around 3 o’clock I could no longer access Facebook or Twitter and text messages from friends confirmed they were having the same problem. Was this because the government was blocking it or because the net was choked with traffic? In a speech, Erdoğan said ‘You can bring a hundred thousand but we will bring a million against you!’ The TV showed the police were retreating from the park in defeat. Apparently a group of BDP parliament members including Sebahattin Tüncel (Rep. Kadıköy) Sırrı Surreya Önder, as well as officials from labor unions, the socialist party and the Freedom and Democracy Party—had again marched on Taksim to be with the protesters. ‘I’ve decide to let them be!’ Erdoğan announced. But text messages from friends said they were still being attacked. ‘They’re spraying us with red water!’ my friend wrote. ‘What does that mean?’ ‘Simple,’ I told him. ‘They’re marking you to find you later.’ But the TV continued to show police retreating from the square. Was it a concession? Or a trick?

We didn’t wait around to find out. We left the house and caught a bus for Taksim—again, running freely despite the violent crackdowns. The roads were spookily empty. Only once we crossed the bridge and pulled into Beşiktaş did traffic come to a halt from the protesters filling the streets.

                We were forced to get off the bus. We couldn’t get any farther. Now the distance from Beşiktaş wharf where we got off to Taksim square is, I would say, around two miles. The entire two mile length of road was jammed shoulder to shoulder with protesters. Tens of thousands of people marching on Taksim Square—but this crowd was different from the one we had marched with the day before. Everyone was carrying Turkish flags, most with pictures of Atatürk in his classic Cossack hat. They were chanting ‘We are all soldiers of Mustafa Kemal’ and singing military marches. Vendors were hawking Atatürk figurines, banners, buttons and scarves. There had been a CHP (The venerable Republican People’s Party) meeting in Kadıköy and officials had canceled the meeting and redirected their people here.
The construction trucks

 

                I don’t know quite how to explain the CHP. I am only a five year resident of Istanbul but I have been here long enough to form a very negative impression. They seem a milder version of the rabidly fascist MHP nationalist party—violently secular and Turkish in the way the Iran is violently Islamic. As a Kurdish inlaw I felt very uncomfortable marching among them. For years, they had insisted Kurds didn’t exist. They were mountain Turks and terrorists. One of their politicians had recently proclaimed that the ‘Kurdish minority could never be equal with the Turkish nation.’ Still, we decided to focus on our collective cause. ‘Olsun! Olsun!’ Delal said. ‘There must be representatives from all segments of society.’

When we hit the turn off toward Beşiktaş station a couple of police vans came barreling down the hill. The CHP marchers jumped to attack—throwing everything they could find, rocks, water bottles, sticks, sandwiches. The response of the police wagon was to floor it, knocking several men in front of the car sideways into the street. The crowd leapt on the van in what looked like a scene from Night of the Living Dead—completely enraged.

                Instead of taking the road that wound around past the stadium, people swarmed up through the park like ants in a beeline toward the square.  We converged on Taksim with tens of thousands of others only to find everything in disarray. A police van sat near a side street completely gutted. People were still yanking off parts and smashing stray bits of window. Media vans sat abandoned in a sea of people—their antennas painted with black graffitti that read ‘Medya Satılmış!’ The medya has sold out. My friend who was somewhere in the square said that Channel 8 had been attacked by a mob. I wasn’t surprised—the main Turkish news had been either ignoring the protests (one channel broadcast a piece on liposuction as Taksim burned) or presented things as the beleaguered police defending themselves from what Erdoğan called ‘extremists groups’.

                We located our friends on the far edge of the square at the entrance to Gezi Park and were dismayed to see them with Turkish flags. We had been marching among Kemalists for about an hour and half at this point--trying not to feel threatened or anxious and only then, I think, as we emerged out of their midst did we allow ourselves to feel the tension. Of course, my American friends thought we were overreacting—and understandably so. For an American it is hard to realize what the political symbols here mean. For a Turk even. When I first got here, I bought a Turkish flag to take to national football game and it made Delal extremely uncomfortable. I didn’t get it—I had bought it for a football game after all, not a political rally. I was fully aware of the extremities of Turkish nationalism and had spoken out against it. The flag didn’t mean the same thing to me as it meant to the nationalists. But what did wielding such a symbol here, today mean? After most protesters in previous days had foregone bringing any such symbols with them? And in recent days who has been brandishing the flag and Atatürk’s picture?
The monument on Taksim Square with LGBT, BDP, and TKP flags

Protesters on side streets--the expats join in
 

                In Kadıköy it has been the ‘Genç Türkler’ whose brochures rail against the ‘blood sucking, baby killer’ Öcalan and assert that any compromise with Kurds is treason and part of a plot to divide the country. It was pinned to the lapel of the woman at work who told me in no uncertain terms that my wife was Turkish first and the Kurds were not really a different people. It is on the cover of the textbook that proclaims the need to fight Turkey’s ‘secret internal enemies’, the textbook that teaches my sixth grade students to want to jail anyone who speaks out against Ataturk and to say things like ‘you should never have married a Kurd’. On the news, a woman speaking to an IMC reporter said that she had seen a gang of men with these flags in Kadıköy shouting slogans against Armenians, Kurds,a nd Alevis—the nationalists are angry that anyone even mentions these minorities. The same woman claims she saw a head scarfed woman cornered by another group of flag bearers in Üsküdar and nearly attacked.( I don’t completely believe that she was an eye witness, but it’s impossible to be sure.  Rumor and hearsay have become pervasive. At the same time another woman tweeted from Taksim—‘Don’t listen to them! I am a covered woman and have been in Taksim for hours. No one bothered me at all!’)
It says--Look what a few trees can do.



All together or not at all

They had set up a make shift bar/pepper gas first aid in the street.
 

                We entered Gezi park and walked past a burning building, more demolished peace vehicles and then sat down under some shady sycamores among thousands of others to savor the trees we’d helped save. The police were long gone but the sting of tear gas lingered—I doubt it will leave for a long time to come. The police supposedly exhausted their supplies. Suddenly, everyone around us stood and started singing the national anthem, some of them holding up giant portraits of Atatürk. (Who brings this stuff?) Where were the non-nationalists? And what did these people want—a return to the days when you get prosecute Elif Şafak and Orhan Pamuk for insulting Turkishness? More assassinations of ‘traitors’ like Hrant Dink? More disappearances of Kurdish dissidents like happened in the 90s? More army coups where thousands of people are tortured in prisons? It was this mentality that set up the dictatorship that Erdoğan has so neatly stepped into.

                A walk down İstiklal was just as worrisome—a mob mentality seemed to have set in among some. Young men were spray painting buildings with curses. ‘Suck my dick, Tayyip’. ‘You’re a son of a whore!’ Some boys were smashing a window only to be stopped by some older men pleading with them to calm down. ‘Provocateurs’ someone said. ‘They’ve been planted.’ Possible, but then just as possible that they were just stupid angry young men. The ATMs of Akbank were smashed and spray painted with the words ‘Chemical Tayyıp’. Windows everywhere were broken. We heard about some businesses helping the protesters and some helping the police. Protesters, for example, were given refuge in Starbucks, but turned out of Burger King who instead sheltered the police. There was rubble and broken glass and grafitti everywhere. All I could think of was this would give all the people who claimed that the protests were mainly the work of drunks and extremist groups ammunition.

                There were more rumors. Beşiktaş was under attack and police weren’t letting anyone out (Turned out to be true—the attacks are still going on as far as I know). I called a friend to confirm and the conversation was cut short by screams and a sudden cutting of the line. People said tanks were returning to Taksim (this didn’t happen). At the ferry dock in Karaköy people were jumping the turnstyles and shouting ‘Don’t pay! Fuck the government!’ As if suddenly any kind of destruction of public property or flaunting of the rules were supporting the protests. Again, lots of people pleading with them to stop but to no avail.

                And then we witnessed the attack on the mail man.

                I had a dream last night that I was fleeing with my American family from a city under attack and we ended up in another town that was being attacked by a different group with gas bombs. We had fled from one nightmare into another. The symbolism of the dream seemed simple enough. People are now fighting the AKP but to put what in its place? A return to the military dictatorship? Would we replace the pretend democracy of these quasi religious capitalists with the pretend democracy of the secular militarists Kemalists? Is there any real alternative? In Diyarbakir, a friend there told us that police had not intervened at all in protests. ‘They say that with the peace process under way here, the AKP doesn’t dare do something like that. All hell would break loose!’ One of the Kurdish leaders, when asked if he thinks the toppling of the AKP would lead to the end of the peace process and more misery for Kurds said, ‘Democracy is not only for us, but for everyone. If that’s necessary, I say, let it happen.’ I compare that with the kids holding up Ataturk’s giant portrait as another spray painted ‘AKP whores’ on the side of a historical building.

                On Mis Sokak, a bright orange graffitti said ‘Revolution This Way!’ I hope that this little revolution follows a wiser path than others. That we don’t turn in circles. That we actually continue on the way we started instead of falling into mob mentality and looting before setting up another dictator or falling in line with this one all over again.

                In a last bit of historical perspective, IMC news reported today on the history of Gezi park--it used to be an Armenian Cemetery appropriated by the government and then turned into a barracks. Apparently the Armenians had 'abandoned' it. There is something poetic in the fact that we were protesting on top of forgotten Armenian graves.


It reads--Capital OUT! Taksim is ours.