It’s Friday. My
sixth graders and I are going out to the football field. Their eyes are full of
colors.
We’re going to
write poetry.
‘I hate poetry,’
a girl announces. ‘It’s stupid.’
One of my clever
boys smirks and asks, ‘Why are we going outside to do this, I mean, I’m not complaining mind you, but we could have
done it in the class room just as easily.’
I gather them
together and tell them to look up.
For a second
there’s complete silence. You’ll never see such a sky, such Fall blue, not in
Istanbul. It’s like we’re on a mountain in Bingöl, in Arizona—far from every
house and car and smokestack in the world. A thousand white gulls pass in a
swirl of wings.
‘Run,’ I tell the
kids. ‘We’re going to run until we can’t run anymore and then we are going to
sit down and look around and write about what we see.’
They write magic.
Some never sit.
There’s a little blond girl who runs and runs, let’s her maroon jacket fall
down to her elbows. She’s exhausted but won’t stop. Sometimes someone chases
her, sometimes they don’t. A boy shows me a poem he’s written about her.
‘I see a girl
running. Running and running and running.
Now she runs like a tired zombie. Falls. Her yellow hair on green
grass. She gets up. Red leaves on green
leaves. We are lying on green grass. Green trashcans, green notebooks, green
pines.’
Their heads are
full of Carl Sandburg and Ezra Pound and William Carlos Williams. (They all
agree Williams has a stupid name.) On the play ground, one girl writes while
hanging from a rope swing. ‘The sky is blue, I hang in the air and I just don’t
care! I just don’t care! I just don’t care!’ One little boy says, ‘I think I’ve
written something strange.’ I read what he’s scribbled diagonally across the
page, ‘My white sneakers run on green grass, like the white birds on blue sky.
White shoes running on heaven.’
Another boy, the smallest of all, writes
eleven poems in a row. About the red maple, about the yellow sycamore, about
the sky, about the Fall, about the service busses, about us running around and
around and laughing and falling and writing, about how boring school is. He’s
on fire.
‘I know why we’re
out here!’ the girl who hates poetry says. ‘When you’re outside like this
you’re feelings just bubble out! You can’t stop writing!’
Or running. The
blond girl still can’t stop.
Whatever they do
this coming week, we’ve had a burst of joy today. The 23 of them and me.
The school is
getting ready for the October 29th holiday. The administration has selected a
theme, ‘The eyes of Atatürk.’ In various places around the school hang pictures
of the eyes of the Republic’s founder. Only the eyes, big and blue and staring
at you wherever you go. We will have a
ceremony celebrating those staring eyes and none of the students will come (but
not because they’re not learning to worship this man—simply because they’d
still rather play). We teachers will come because we have to. Songs will be
sung in his honor, dances danced, purple prose speeches made.
October 29th
marks more than the anniversary of the Republic’s founding. It’s the day that
Delal and I took a ferry to the Emniyet (the national security office) to find
out if we could see her father. The police. The paranoia. The undercover
agents. A black day. He’d just been arrested. We had no idea what would happen.
The red Turkish flag was everywhere. No one questioned. The right wing papers
were screaming ‘TERRORIST!’ It was the first time I really understood, gut understood, why my in-laws found it so
threatening.
The hunger strike
that started weeks ago is on its 40th day—63 people have been striking since
the beginning, 420 more have joined—political prisoners all, and not just in
Istanbul, but all over the country. The
63 are growing weak. Some are starting to vomit and show signs of disease. An article in the Radikal say it’s no longer a
hunger strike but a death watch. And
strangely, the government is taking notice. They are allowing stories about it
in the papers (the Hürriyet says, ‘President Gül is unsettled by the direction
things are moving’). People debate it in talk shows on TV. President Gül says
talks with the strikers are possible. Even talks with the PKK are
possible. They may consider the strikers
demands which include an end to solitary confinement for Abdullah Öcalan, being
able to defend themselves in Kurdish, and general education in the mother
tongue. (We don’t know the details because the prisoners are boycotting visits—strangely,
the journalists are too. Not one paper, it seems, has sent anyone to find out first
hand what is happening inside. Rumors are flying about Kurdish being allowed in
the courtroom.) There are signs for
hope.
And yet at the
same time, the random repression continues. A journalist, Hatice Duman, is
sentenced to life in prison. Never mind that Necati Abay, tried in the very
same case, was released. And the prime minister promises no compromise during a
speech in Elazığ. He says, ‘We will not negotiate with terrorists! We will even
talk to Yezidis (a Kurdish sect) as long as they are not terrorists.’ ‘Even’ with Yezidis. Notice the wording. And the very same Radikal
newspaper devotes three pages to a historian named ‘Ismail Küçükkaya’ who says
that Turkey has never been multicultural, and then goes on to insult Kurds in
particular.
‘Turkey is not a
mosaic,’ he writes, ‘Because those other elements have never developed
themselves. When I say this, you might counter with ‘The fascist Turkey never
opened schools!’ But actually the problem is not with schools but with the
elite. Kurdish leaders are not real leaders. They are not Iraqi Kurd. Put one
of those guys across from them and let them see what real governing is!’
Never mind the
extrajudicial killings, jailings and legal executions of hundreds of Kurdish
intellectuals. How can you develop anything from a grave?
But at the same
time, things are being discussed that have never been discussed before. For the
first time since I’ve been here. On TV the other night, a commentator said the
words ‘Armenian Genocide’ without the hitherto obligatory ‘so-called’.
At night, the
smell of livestock and manure wafts through our apartment. The feast of the
sacrifice is fast approaching when Muslims celebrate the sparing of Isaac by
God. Instead of his son, Abraham kills a lamb.
The papers are
full of people arguing one way or the other for the holiday. Editorials,
articles. ‘How can we explain this to our children?’ City folk find it cruel
and barbaric, this sacrificing of animals. I don’t see it—maybe I’m not used to
the blood flowing right in front of my eyes, but it’s done behind the scenes
every day. We like our meat already cut and packaged—no reminders of where it
comes from. But so what? What, really, is the big deal? But nothing is without political import here.
The old guard does not like the reminder of religion or blood. The new boys in
power want everyone to know that this is a MUSLIM country with MUSLIM holidays.
The faithful will perform the sacrifice and give away the meat—ideally. The
non-believers will go somewhere and have a drink just to show they can. We
non-Muslims might hit the streets just to see what’s going on—or head to the
beach while the warm weather lasts to take advantage of the days off.
I helped
sacrifice a goat last year. It was in Dede’s dream—with his grandchildren he
would sacrifice and animal at a holy place and give away the meat. They painted
blood on our foreheads to mark as belonging to his house—Mala Memli.
All I know is
that the goat meat kavurma we ate on Mt. Silbus tasted good.
That day the sky
was blue too. Like the spirit of the mountain named for an Armenian saint of
light had cleaned it just for us. We danced the halay with strangers and lit
candles to the gods.
The better
question to ask at this Kurban Bayram is this:
Many of Turkey’s own sons
and daughters lie on the altar now—are they going to strike or spare them?
1 comment:
Thank you for this quite remarkable post. May the AKP elite see reason soon, step back from the authoritarian temptation.
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